I’m dreaming of a Kentucky Fried Christmas…
Whether it was an incredible marketing ploy by KFC or the Japanese equating fried food and Christmas cake to western cultures, many families throughout Japan choose fried chicken and Christmas cake—basically fancy strawberry shortcake—as a Christmas meal. The holidays in Japan bring quite the mix of eastern and western cultures. Christmas is typically a lovers’ holiday while New Year’s Eve and Day are reserved for family celebrations. As more western Christmas traditions, like Santa, are embraced, Christmas is becoming a family holiday as well.
Japan has been an integral part of my life for the better part of a decade. I’ve lived here for almost eight years in total and have celebrated a traditional Japanese Christmas a few times. The first celebration occurred about five years ago. While we didn’t have fried chicken, we did have sukiyaki and Christmas cake. Sukiyaki is a hotpot-style meal of simmered meat and a variety of seasonal vegetables. The Christmas cake was a real treat for me even though I hate cake with every part of my being! We sung a carol of choice, lit the candles, and had cake and champagne. I mean, music, sweets, and a celebration, what’s not to like?! I am so thankful my dear friends invited me to join them for that.
Christmas is also considered a day for lovers, much like Valentine’s Day in America. Couples dress in nice attire, make a dinner reservation or reserve fried chicken—you actually need to reserve it in advance—, and celebrate together. It is seen as such a romantic holiday that some years groups of single people even protest it. Prior to Christmas, shops, especially jewelry stores, are filled with couples shopping for the perfect Christmas gift. Often times, the couples shop for the presents together rather than taking a chance with surprises.
As more western traditions like Santa, Christmas trees, and illuminations filter into Japanese society, more families find themselves wrapped in the modern western Christmas lore. The fanciful thing about Japan is that the holidays are a time to unite people and have fun. Children are wistfully excited about the jolly, fat man from Finland visiting them to bring presents (yes, Santa is from Finland or northern Europe here). Parents love the rituals as well because it fits in with a society that has so many deep traditions of their own. Friends enjoy holiday parties and some even incorporate Christmas celebrations into their bonenkais (end of the year parties).
The illuminations here rival those found throughout the west. However, since Christmas is rather new compared to other places, foreigners can sometimes find interesting additions to the Christmas decor. For instance, one year an illumination had a cross, a Pikachu, and a dancing rabbit all next to each other. One year, the theme of our local illumination was outer space. Traditions are not only adopted here, but they are also adapted.
As people begin to digest the copious amounts of fried chicken, the whirlwind celebrations of the New Year begin. Most stores and businesses are closed for a minimum of two to three days around the holidays. Smaller shops might be closed for up to ten days. Even parts of bustling Tokyo come to a halt during this time. Families come together to eat, visit the shrines and temples, and rest. Each family holds their own traditions. Yet, many people return to their jika (family home) to celebrate.
The traditional activities of New Year’s Eve include eating Toshikoshi soba, drinking amazake (a sweet drink often made from sake lees), and going to the local shrines and temples to pray. At midnight, many temples ring their bells 100+ times in order to bring in a good year. Originally, these events occurred around the Chinese lunar calendar and Chinese New Year. However, in 1873 during the Meiji era, the Gregorian calendar was adopted, and the new year started on January 1. While many traditions remain the same, some smaller things have been added.
New Year’s Day is filled with food. Families often eat crab dishes or osechi ryori, a meal comprised of small symbolic foods. Each area of Japan has their own food cultures and traditions. Some regional foods are rich in flavor while others are simple and clean. Food is not the only important tradition for the new year.
Hatsumode, the first shrine visit, remains my favorite tradition. Often times, families wait hours just to get into the shrine to pray. Several years ago, I had the opportunity to celebrate at Meiji Shrine in Tokyo. I waited for approximately four hours with hundreds of other people. While it was cold and tiring, I appreciated that I could participate in such a wonderful tradition.
January 2 brings people out of their homes for a special shopping day. It is similar to (but much less violent than) Black Friday in America. Some stores offer such great sales that people line up the day before to ensure they snag the best deal. The most popular items are lucky bags, or bags with mystery items unknown to the purchaser. The value is equal to or greater than what is listed as the price. Even Apple and Starbucks sometimes offer these special bags. Stores also heavily discount other goods as well. While it can be a fun filled day with friends or family, I prefer to stay at home reading or just enjoying a break from the hustle and bustle of popular sale days.
Other festivals continue into January to ensure the new year is blessed and safe. While living in Japan and celebrating, I find many differences between my own background and the traditions here. Yet, I find just as many similarities. In a time that people are often torn apart and fighting, it is nice to realize that deep down, many of us are fueled by the same things and can connect on levels that can supersede barriers such as language, religion, and culture.
While the holidays don’t look the same this year, I’ll continue to be thankful for all the wonderful people and experiences in my life. If I have learned anything this year, it’s that sometimes best things are often the most unexpected.
