Omatsu Daigongen: Sanctuary of a Cat God
When planning my trip to Tokushima, Omatsu Daigogen found a spot on my list, but it wasn’t in the “must-visit” category. However, after experiencing its charm, I can confidently say it deserves a place on every traveler's itinerary. If you like local legends, Japanese history, or cats, Omatsu Daigogen is a destination you don’t want to miss.
Located in the small town of Anan in Tokushima Prefecture, the shrine holds a deep-rooted legend of tragedy and devotion. The story of Omatsu and her loyal cat is one of the most fascinating legends I heard in Shikoku.
The Legend of Omatsu and Her Calico Cat
The tale dates back to the 17th century when Omatsu married a samurai who was the head of Kamo Village in Anan. During a time of poor harvest, her husband borrowed money from a wealthy local man to save the struggling village. Despite repaying the debt, he passed away, and the wealthy man claimed that the debt remained unpaid.
Omatsu appealed to the local magistrate. Unfortunately, the magistrate had been bribed by the man and ruled against her. Undeterred, Omatsu took the bold and forbidden step of appealing directly to the daimyo, knowing that such an action was punishable by death.
While imprisoned, Omatsu’s only companion was her calico cat. Some versions of the story say the cat died alongside her, while others claim it survived and later became a vengeful spirit. This spirit is said to have haunted the magistrate’s house for generations. This became one of Japan’s most famous Bakeneko (monster/ghost cat) legends. After exacting revenge, the spirit of the cat eventually found peace and transformed into a protective deity.
Omatsu Daigogen: The Shrine of the Cat God
Today, the shrine is dedicated to Nekogami-san, or the cat god, and holds a special place in the hearts of the local community. Visitors come to pray for success in competitions, exams, and overall good fortune. Over 10,000 maneki-neko (beckoning cat) statues can be found on the shrine’s grounds, and a walk through the surrounding wooded paths reveals even more cat statues and mysterious items.
As you explore the area, you may be lucky enough to spot a real cat or two wandering the grounds. But even if you don’t, there’s an presence that makes you feel as though you’re never truly alone.
Getting There
Omatsu Daigogen Shrine is most easily accessible by car from central Anan or Tokushima City. Despite being in a wooded area near the mountains, the roads are manageable and not particularly treacherous.
Omatsu Daigogen Shrine provides a glimpse into the rich history of Tokushima Prefecture and a chance to dive into the world of Japanese folklore. The shrine’s rich history and the surrounding natural beauty make it a hidden gem worth visiting in Tokushima.
Have you ever visited a shrine with such a fascinating backstory? Share your thoughts or experiences in the comments below!
