An Adventure to Toyama
Over the last few years, my fondness for central Japan has grown significantly. From exploring extremely rural locations to small cities, I have visited many incredible places that are often devoid of the typical crowds of tourists. I took a weekend trip to Toyama City, Toyama Prefecture at the end of last year. Although I have visited the city a few times in the past, this was my first overnight stay in the city. Initially, we planned to include the Noto Peninsula into this trip, but rainy weather shifted our plans. I regret not taking the adventure to Noto but plan to go there once the area is stable again.
We left Aichi early one Saturday morning and drove through Gifu. Along the way, we made brief pit stops at a couple of rest areas along the highway, treating ourselves to snacks and beverages to fuel our trip. Between Aichi and Toyama, there are several cities that are worth exploring if you are taking a longer vacation. You pass through or near the beautiful cities of Gujo, Takayama, Shirakawa-go, Kanazawa, and others. Since we were not planning a long trip, we continued to Takaoka before exiting the highway.
Upon reaching Takaoka, our primary objective was twofold: to see the Great Buddha and to find caffeine. We arrived at the Buddha to find there were very few people in the area. It became apparent that the serene atmosphere stemmed from the fact that many local shops remained closed until closer to noon. We enjoyed exploring the area around the Buddha and decided to pop into Amida, a coffee shop adjacent to the temple. In the shop they offer lattes, snacks, and several Buddha themed treats. Opting for the signature Great Buddha latte, I found myself not only enjoying its rich flavor but also its presentation, a perfect blend of taste and visual appeal. After grabbing a few photos of the area and filling up with caffeine, we started our journey towards Kurobe in Toyama Prefecture.
While driving to Kurobe from Toyama City, a discovery created a detour on our journey— Satsuki Shrine in Kamiichi. Eager to explore and find some lunch, we quickly veered off the highway. The maps had us follow a road that kept narrowing. Eventually, we began to worry that the car might be as wide as—or wider than—the road. The problem with these narrow mountain passes in Japan is that they rarely have guardrails, often are only large enough for one car, and usually have terrifying s-curves. With no option to turn back, we drove on and were relieved when the path widened. The road soon began to narrow again as we approached the shrine. Deciding to be cautious, we chose to walk the remaining 500 meters. This allowed us to fully absorb the beauty of the surroundings.
I hoped that the shrine would live up to the expectations. As we walked, we enjoyed being the only people in the area. The green moss clung to the road and rocks while a beautiful brook flowed alongside the road. With each step, a sense of enchantment intensified within me. This journey brought back fond memories of past visits to countryside shrines, each filled with its own distinctive charm. As we continued our stroll, I felt a deep connection to the beauty of this sacred space. These experiences are a testament to the appeal of Japan's countryside and its cultural and natural wonders.
Satsuki Shrine exceeded all expectations. Its beauty mesmerized me from the moment I saw the o-torii and moss-covered grounds. The vibrant hues of green and yellow of the moss and trees painted a picturesque scene that seemed almost unearthly. I could only imagine that it would be even more stunning when all the leaves have changed or when covered in snow. After soaking in all the beauty, we walked back to the car and drove to a small soba shop. I chose the tenzaru soba, which is cold soba with tempura. Although simple, it is one of the dishes I recommend to visitors.
Continuing our journey, we made our way to Kurobe and Unazuki to see the Unazaki Dam and the Kurobe River. While we wanted to see Kurobe Dam and other sights, we selected this portion of the river since it was much easier to access. Once we arrived, I was mesmerized by how blue the river looked. Its vibrant blue appearance, almost dreamlike in its intensity, shocked me. It was reminiscent of a scene from a painting or dream rather than real life. In pictures it looks almost fake or overly edited. However, this phenomenon is caused by the minerals that the snow carries as it melts and travels down the mountain. Because of the picturesque views, I hope to return to this area and book a nice ryokan with a private outdoor bath.
After a day filled with exciting excursions, we began the hour-long journey back to Toyama City to our hotel. In a city like Toyama, known for its blend of tradition and modernity, accommodation options typically lean towards the choice between a ryokan or a business hotel. However, I noticed that a new hotel opened this year with great reviews. I would normally choose a ryokan if my plans centered around hanging around an onsen and relaxing, but we planned to explore the city.
Our stay was marred by an unexpectedly negative experience despite its positive online reputation. Thus, prompting me to omit any mention of the hotel from this post. In the spirit of transparency and authenticity, I believe it is important to share both the highlights and the low points of our travel experiences.
Once we freshened up, we made our way to Sogawa Base to kick off our evening. We typically pop by this location any time we are in Toyama. The ground floor serves as a spot for various restaurants, offering an array of dining options ranging from pizzas and curries to traditional Japanese sweets. While I have tried the foods on previous visits, this time our sole purpose was to make a stop at Brewmin' for a couple craft beers before dinner. We found a selection of decent brews on draft. However, the assortment of canned options was somewhat limited compared to previous visits.
Following our delightful stop at Brewmin', we strolled over to Nidaime Maruichi (二代目丸一) for dinner. We were immediately excited by the wonderful atmosphere and menu. The friendly and knowledgeable staff explained a few of the food and drink choices to us but gave us ample time to peruse the menu. Our expectations were exceeded as we experienced all the delicious flavors. Each dish was a demonstration to the izakaya's commitment to quality. The sashimi stands out as some of the freshest and most flavorful I have eaten in Japan. And, of course, no visit to Toyama would be complete without my favorite dish, Shiroebi karaage—crispy fried small white shrimp. We enjoyed a variety of foods and drinks. As the evening continued, we became absorbed in conversation with our neighbors and decided to all go to a cocktail bar.
We hailed a taxi to take us to Old Saint Rickey’s because it was a highly reviewed bar. The only disappointment was that we were seated at a private table rather than the bar. I typically enjoy watching the craft of the bartenders while having a drink. However, the staff graciously permitted me to go to the bar to watch all the action. After a couple drinks, we said our goodbyes.
Our cravings soon led us in search of Chinese cuisine. This brought us to the unassuming yet pleasantly surprising Big 5. Despite my initial reservations, every dish exceeded expectations, leaving us thoroughly satisfied. We then went back to the hotel to get some sleep.
After a restful night's sleep, we indulged in a big breakfast at the hotel to prepare for another day of exploring. The weather was quite chilly and gray. We decided to spend the morning shopping near Toyama Station. Our second stop was Toyama Castle and its surrounding park, where we learned more about the history of the area.
As lunchtime approached, we made our way to Kobo Brewing, which is slightly away from downtown. Housed within a renovated rice storehouse, the brewery exuded a rustic charm that transported us to another time and place. We were fascinated by the sight of long tables crafted from whole trees. These brought a feeling of stepping into the world of games like the Elder Scrolls series. We decided to only have drinks there before checking out a small local udon shop.
Located in an old Japanese house, the udon shop offered a small, curated menu of soba, udon, and curry. The lunch was quite peaceful as we had a charming view of a garden. Quaint cafes, sake shops, and other stores are also found around this area. One of my favorite sake shops offers customers the opportunity to purchase tokens to sample different sakes. The staff clerks are always incredibly friendly which only adds to the fun environment. Since I was not driving, I sampled a few different varieties. While I wanted to take photos, I opted to respect the privacy of fellow patrons and instead focused on enjoying the experience.
As we bid farewell to Toyama, I reflected on the past two days filled with fun and wonderful experiences. For travelers seeking a break from the hustle and bustle of Japan's more crowded destinations, Toyama is waiting to be explored. This prefecture is stunningly beautiful, offers delicious foods, unique sights, and many opportunities to relax. From the beauty of its landscapes to the rich culture, there is something for every traveler.
Moreover, in the wake of the Noto earthquake earlier in 2024, both Toyama and neighboring Ishikawa Prefecture have seen a decline in tourist numbers. Now more than ever, these regions benefit from tourism to support local economies and aid in the ongoing process of rebuilding and recovery.
If you're seeking an authentic and less-crowded Japanese experience, I wholeheartedly recommend adding Toyama Prefecture to your travel itinerary. Where do you want to go in Toyama?
