A Weekend Away in Kanazawa
Recently, I took a weekend trip to Kanazawa in Ishikawa Prefecture. It’s about a three-hour journey by car from northern Aichi Prefecture. While I have been to Toyama and areas of Fukui, I somehow had never made it to Kanazawa in the last twelve years. Immediately upon arrival, the city started to surprise me. So many quaint and quirky businesses could be found on every side street while there were also many beautiful gardens and historic districts to offset the feeling of it being just another Japanese city. While I unequivocally love Japan and traveling here, small Japanese cities begin to feel very similar after a while. Some of those elements existed in Kanazawa near the highway. Yet, the downtown area offered many interesting gems.
Upon arriving, we headed out to explore the neighborhood around the hotel since it was a bit too early for check-in. Our first stop was Omicho Market for some street food. The market is quite well known for it’s fresh seafood. It was not as lively as Nishiki Market in Kyoto. However, there was an incredible selection of delicious seafoods and other dishes. Of course, I had to get raw oysters, uni, and beef sashimi. We continued on our journey after a quick snack.
While walking, we headed towards Higashi Chaya, the historic eastern tea district. Luckily, the rain had recently stopped. Kanazawa is famous for the incredible amount of rain it receives. The city transforms into an even more beautiful place in the rain or immediately after. The rain made the colors even more vibrant, and the ominous black clouds provided a backdrop for several pictures. We quickly worked up an appetite walking around the neighborhoods. Being craft beer fans, we popped into the Oriental Brewing location near Higashi Chaya. While I can appreciate the energy they put into a creative menu and beers, I didn’t find the beers to be anything out of the ordinary or impressive. However, the staff and all customers were incredibly friendly and kind.
Next, we headed towards the samurai district. Strolling through this area felt like we travelled back in time but with a modern twist. The architecture felt like a blend of new and old. Towards the end of the walk, we stumbled upon the Moron café and enjoyed delicious carrot cake and a latte.
After walking around a bit more, we headed back to the hotel to check-in. We chose the UAN in Kanazawa. It’s a small boutique hotel with elements of modern art intertwined with Japanese culture. The hotel sits in a prime location for walking around to see all the major sites. The staff members are friendly, and the hotel offers a variety of local teas in the lobby. The rooms are decently sized for a boutique hotel in Japan. However, the bathroom has a glass window right behind the toilet that looks into the living area. While there was a rolling shade, it can be quite uncomfortable for anyone using the toilet or sitting in the room. The shower and soaking tub offered a nice view of the terrace. It was too cold to sit on the terrace, so this was nice. The hotel planners thought of so many little details to make the room even better. While there’s a vanity in the bathroom, there’s also one next to the terrace. This was perfect for getting natural light to apply make-up. In the room, you can expect nice closet space, a Dyson hairdryer, pajamas, and a yukata. I didn’t use the pajamas or yukata but saw cute pictures on Instagram of others enjoying them.
After freshening up and realizing that I packed nothing warm enough for the night, we headed to dinner. I chose Fuwari because of its high reviews and incredible menu. This was one of the best izakayas that I’ve visited in Japan. Some of the dishes seemed simple but had an outstanding flavor. All of the ingredients were fresh, the staff was attentive and kind, and the atmosphere was relaxed and traditional. After eating, we spent time talking with the owner about the other restaurants that are part of Fuwari and his passion for cooking. If you visit Kanazawa, I recommend this restaurant for dinner.
Even though I typically doze off on the couch by 10:00 p.m. every night, I wanted to see the nightlife in Kanazawa. Most bars and night establishments don’t open until 8:00 p.m. or later. We killed time by walking through a few shops and visiting an arcade. Then, we headed to the Furansu Bar (フランスバー) for a cocktail.
The bar is owned by two brothers who are French-Japanese. They showcase local artwork on the walls of the bar and have curated a delicious menu of creative cocktails. Each drink comes with a show as it is prepared, and no details are spared in the drinkware and décor. We had four drinks—a Japanese old fashioned, a banana colada, a yuzu sour, and an Aztec negroni—between the two of us. Of course, the Japanese old fashioned and Aztec negroni were my choices. The Japanese old fashioned had shiso infused into many components of it. The Aztec negroni contained absinthe and mezcal. While the drinks and décor were fabulous, the conversation with the brothers was even more delightful. They were not only passionate about what they do but also enjoy interacting with people. In addition to the owners, I had a lovely conversation with others who were seated at the bar. We planned to have one drink and visit other places but stayed here longer than we planned because it was so interesting and fun.
After drinks, we walked around the area. There’s an area that reminded me of Tokyo’s famous Golden Gai. There were small, almost hidden bars located down a couple alleyways. Some seemed intriguing while others were designed more for locals only. After walking around a little more, we headed back to the hotel. I had an incredibly relaxing bath and slept so soundly.
The sun shined brightly the next day, so we decided to visit all the nearby attractions, starting with Kenroku-en, the famous Japanese garden. Based on my knowledge of the garden, I mistakenly assumed it would probably be incredibly overrated. However, I was quickly proven wrong after only a few steps through the gate. The different shades of green along with the remaining blossoms shocked my senses. The garden has different levels that allow you to stroll leisurely. Some areas looked as if they were pulled directly from a fantasy novel. While others transported me back in Japan’s history. No number of words could describe how stunning this garden is. If I visit again, I will probably try to visit in the fall.
Once we finished exploring the garden, we decided to visit the castle park, modern art museum, and a few temples. The castle park failed to impress me even though it was vast. The modern art museum was incredibly crowded and hot. Because the wait to see the special exhibit was so long, we decided to only view a few permanent pieces. There were so many temples in the temple area near Nishi Chaya, or western tea district. One temple, Myouryuji, was referred to as the ninja temple. The Nishi Chaya area didn’t seem as lively or as large as the Higashi Chaya we visited the previous day.
Once we saw these sites, we had lunch and started our journey back to Aichi. This weekend away proved to be exactly what I needed to spark some creativity and refresh my mind after returning to the office full-time rather than working from home. If you have the chance to visit Kanazawa, it’s easily accessed from Tokyo, Nagoya, Osaka, and Kyoto by car or train. I absolutely recommend adding it to your itinerary if you like history, gardens, strolling around cities, or delicious food. I can hardly wait to return.
